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Connecting with the Green
Hearts of Guatemala: |
by many other local people. We
traveled in a small van and experienced these special places by hiking
(or occasionally boating) directly into them and meeting the people who
live there and manage them. No short article can do the trip justice,
but here are some highlights. Chilasco—gateway to the Sierra de las Minas Biosphere—is beginning to develop an ecotourism economy. With the promise of a magnificent 130 meter waterfall as our reward, we made the long, steep descent through lush forest with views of the adjacent vast fields of broccoli that were part of the planned sustainable land use of this buffer area. The hot, vertical return hike was made more bearable by the cheerful help of a number of young boys who, eager to earn a tip, carried our packs and generally kept us jolly. My young helper, Selvin, was very |
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Natural Areas Association International Workshops have all of the self-indulgent aspects of a vacation—relaxation, stimulation, pleasure—but with a serious learning aspect and a hefty component of generosity toward the people and places involved. Three times in recent years I have chosen an NAA trip (Cuba, Venezuela and Guatemala) as a vacation because they most closely match what I would design for myself if I had the time, experience, and inclination to plan. The itineraries weave together experiences in the country’s significant natural areas and conversations with the people who live and work there in a way that offers an opportunity for an authentic connection in short visit. Not to be underestimated is the rollicking companionship of other NAA members who share the non-mainstream desire to spend their leisure time doing such things as keying out plant species, and mucking up a steep muddy slope in search of a cave entrance. This short article is an unabashed personal endorsement of these trips in general and an unconditional recommendation of Guatemala as a nature lover’s destination. Now that the freshest memories have faded what remains is the strong, warm impression of complex relationships among people, history, and a spectacular landscape. Some take home messages of the February 2007 NAA International Workshop to Guatemala: 1. The Guatemalan landscape is diverse, rich, and dramatically dynamic—volcanoes, earthquakes, and hurricanes are powerful natural forces that are a day-to-day reality. 2. The Mayan people are not just historical figures—they are alive and well, and very proud. There are scores of Mayan |
languages, 22 of which are recognized
by the government. Many Mayans have mixed heritage with Europeans. Our
voluble guide Esteban (Steven) declared himself to be 75% Mayan and 25%
“I don’t know.” 3. Guatemala is a country in pain, still very much recovering from recent decades of war. Healing is not complete. In the words of one of our Guatemalan friends, “We will forgive, but we want to know who to forgive and what to forgive.” 4. Shopping in Guatemala is often a good deed, directly supporting the people who need an income most. Textiles are a particularly delightful commodity that are available virtually everywhere. They look even more stunning when you get them home. 5. Though postcards are for sale everywhere, the absence of stamps, mailboxes, and post offices is a mystery not to be shared with visitors. 6. Safety is a real concern in some parts of the country. Violent crime is part of the reality that Guatemalans live with. 7. Laughter is a key component of NAA International Workshops and, despite the hardships we saw, this trip was no exception. The itinerary of our ten-day trip was ambitious and varied, designed to show us the diversity of natural and cultural assets of Guatemala:
Sixteen of us were hosted by Jorge Cardona, a Guatemalan Nature Conservancy biologist, aided |
interested in learning the English and Latin names of the
plants we saw and seemed delighted to repeat them to his friends. At the
top of the return climb, we were very ready for the delicious locally
produced lunch prepared by the women of the community and served with
brilliantly colored local sodas.
To reach the Bocas del Polochic
Wildlife Refuge, we traveled by boat across Lake Izabal and down the Rio
Oscuro to the Mayan village of Selempin—near the biological station
where Jorge once worked. This rich natural area has been awarded the
international designation as a Ramsar Wetland because of its size,
location, and diversity. It supports many species of birds, like snail
kites, as well as manatees and other wildlife,
but the challenges are severe. Incompatible fishing practices such as gill netting and potential future mineral extraction are major threats to the health of this system, and the people who live there need a source of food and income beyond sugarcane. We visited the local school where we were greeted by smiling children, delighted at our presence, and thrilled by our small gifts of school supplies and medicine. They are so isolated that when they were asked if they knew who we were, they guessed “migrant workers?” REFLECTION Throughout our trip as we were birding and botanizing, shopping and sipping wine, underlying it all was the serious discussion of the economics and politics of Guatemala. Continued on page 7 | ||||
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